Monday, December 26, 2016

Apple Magic Mouse - Disassembling procedure

Multi-touch gesture control
Bluetooth wireless connectivity
Lightning port (for charging and pairing)
Internal lithium-ion battery
Slightly warm up the bottom of the mouse
In the previous model, strong adhesive secured the aluminum belly to the mouse.
Apple has mentioned that their mouse has an "optimized foot design." Peel off those feet, the new model hides screws underneath.
After lots of heat and half a dozen prying tools wedged under the casing, the mouse is partially released from the gluey mess beneath.
Finally separate the lower casing from the mouse and get first view of its  midframe.
Popping four plastic clips open lets into the battery chamber.
It turns out these clips are actually part of the rocking/clicking mechanism for the single top shell/button.
Also check that clear acrylic. It's only painted on the underside, leaving the top and sides clear.
With the upper casing lifted up, get a clear view of what makes this mouse so senseational that capacitative array.
The capacitative array makes this mouse a bit of a trackpad hybrid, allowing it to detect touch on its surface, registering gestures made without even moving the mouse.
Finally Screws, Unfortunately, they're holding down a bracket over a ribbon cable which prevents us from separating the mouse bits just yet but hey, that ribbon cable.
seatbelt will make the mouse better withstand drops.
Finally separate from the base of the mouse, the upper casing provides a clearer view of its capacitative touch-sensing array.
A little spring provides some resistance and distributes force when the mouse is clicked, making it seem like the small button on the right occupies the whole width of the mouse.
Broadcom BCM20733 Enhanced Data Rate Bluetooth 3.0 Single-Chip Solution
Unknown 303S0499 probably a proprietary Apple touch controller
NXP 1608A1 Charging IC
Texas Instruments 56AYZ21
ST Microelectronics STM32F103VB 72 MHz 32-bit RISC ARM Cortex-M3
Hiding beneath the logic board, find a teensy switch that makes the mouse click its click.
It held in only by the board above, and is a welcome relief after wading through the rest of this tar pit.
As a common failure part for computer mice, it's nice that Apple used a fairly standard and easilysourced switch although its replacement will require dealing with all of that glue (and soldering in the replacement switch).
Turn our attention to the battery, which sits snug as a bug in its little plastic box, making it annoying to extract.
As it turns out, that's not the only thing holding it down there's a mess of glue to contend with as well. Removing the battery is even less fun than we feared.
The Magic Mouse 2's battery shares a common feature with the Apple TV Remote the Lightning connector is soldered to the battery cable.
This small accessory doesn't pack light that 3.67 V, 7.28 Wh, 1986 mAh li-ion cell holds about 9% more powerful than the one in the iPhone 6s
The Lightning port and battery can be replaced (as a single component), independent of the logic board if you can get the device open.
Replacing a malfunctioning switch requires prying through intense adhesive and soldering.
Excessive use of strong adhesive makes it very difficult to remove the rear panel, hindering access to every internal component.