Category: Ipads and Ipods Repair and Service
Contents of this article
- LCD and touchscreen removal
- Battery removal
- Wifi antenna removal
Apple iPad Air 2
DISSEMBLING PROCEDURE
LCD and Touch Screen
To open up the iPad Air 2, use the heat gun or a blow dryer
to loosen the adhesive around the edges of the display assembly (LCD and touch
screen). Insert the plastic triangle pry tool in the seam between the display
assembly and the rear case. Work your way around the perimeter of the tablet to
release the display assembly from its securing adhesive.
With the iPad Air 2 opened, we notice all of the display cables
are located near the lower edge. You will see three small Phillips screws
securing a metal cover over the display assembly’s ribbon cables, use the small
Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws and then lift the metal cover up. Next,
use the nylon spudger to disconnect the display assembly’s connections and
completely remove the LCD and touch screen assembly from the iPad Air 2.
Home Button Assembly
Now turn your attention to the iPad Air 2 Home Button Assembly.
Remove the black tape covering the home button’s connection and then release
the home button assembly’s ribbon cable.
The home button assembly and the protective metal bracket are secured in place with a small amount of adhesive, use the heat gun or a blow dryer to loosen the adhesive.
Lift up the left side of the metal bracket to remove it and gain access to the home button assembly. Gently pry up the home button assembly and remove it from the iPad Air 2 display assembly.
The home button assembly and the protective metal bracket are secured in place with a small amount of adhesive, use the heat gun or a blow dryer to loosen the adhesive.
Lift up the left side of the metal bracket to remove it and gain access to the home button assembly. Gently pry up the home button assembly and remove it from the iPad Air 2 display assembly.
Loudspeaker Units
Toward the bottom of the iPad Air 2 rear case/housing are
the loudspeaker units. The loudspeaker ribbon cables are covered with black
tape, use the fine tip curved tweezers to remove the tape and release the connections.
Now, use the small Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the loudspeaker units in place. Carefully pry up and lift the loudspeaker units out of the Apple tablet’s rear case.
Now, use the small Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the loudspeaker units in place. Carefully pry up and lift the loudspeaker units out of the Apple tablet’s rear case.
Front-Facing HD Camera
There is a metal bracket across the top of the mother board
secured with four Phillips screws; remove the screws and bracket from the iPad
Air 2. Use the fine tipped curved tweezers to disconnect the front-facing
camera’s ribbon cable. With the spudger pry up the front-facing camera and
remove it from the foam tape holding it to the rear housing.
Headphone Jack & Left Ambient Light Sensor
Use the fine tip curved tweezers to disconnect the headphone
jack and the left ambient light sensor’s ribbon cable from the motherboard. With
the Phillips screwdriver remove the two small Phillips screws securing the
metal cover over the headphone jack and left ambient light sensor. Use the
spudger to remove the cover. This will reveal an additional Phillips screw that
holds the headphone jack in place. Remove the screw and then use the heat gun
or a blow dryer to loosen the adhesive holding the headphone jack ribbon cable
in place. With the tweezers carefully remove the iPad Air 2 headphone jack and
left ambient light sensor.
Wi-Fi Antennas
With the fine tip curved tweezers disconnect the two
Wi-Fi antenna coaxial cables. Each antenna, located toward the top of the iPad
Air 2, is held in place with four small Phillips screws (three on top of the
antenna and one underneath). Use the Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws
and then with the spudger gently rouse each Wi-Fi antenna from their foamy beds.
Rear-Facing Camera
In the top right corner of the iPad Air 2 remove the small
Phillips screw located to the left of the rear-facing camera connection. With
the fine tipped curved tweezers disconnect the rear-facing camera’s ribbon cable,
and then utilize the spudger to pry up the rear-facing camera and remove it from
the adhesive securing it in place.
Power Button Cable, Mic & Right Ambient
Light Sensor
With the fine tip curved tweezers disconnect the ribbon
cable for the power button, mic and right ambient light sensor (be mindful of
the alignment pin). Then use the small Phillips screwdriver to remove the two
screws and bracket securing the cable in place. With the screws and bracket
removed use the spudger or fine tip curved tweezers to pry the power button cable
up and out of the iPad Air 2 tablet.
Volume Button Ribbon Cable & Mic
There is a cover secured by a single Phillips screw over the
iPad Air 2 volume button ribbon cable connection. Once the cover and screw are
removed, use the fine tip curved tweezers to disconnect the volume button
ribbon cable from the logic board. There are four Phillips screws holding a
bracket and the volume button ribbon cable to the iPad’s rear case. With the
bracket and screws removed, use the fine tip curved tweezers to carefully release
the mic from its housing and pry the volume button cable and mic up and out of the
Apple tablet.
Lightning Port Connection
Use the fine tip curved tweezers to remove the black tape
covering the lightning port connection. With the small Phillips screwdriver
remove the four screws securing the lightning port connection in place. With
the screws removed maneuver the lightning port up and out of its housing in the
rear case. The iPad Air 2 lightning port is soldered to the logic board and
cannot be removed separately
Logic Board and Battery
With the Phillips screwdriver remove the single screw securing
the battery’s connection. The logic board and battery are glued to the iPad’s
rear case; use the heat gun or blow dryer to heat the area directly to the left
of the Apple logo. Carefully pry the logic board up and out of the rear case
with the spudger.With the logic board out of the way more heat will need to be
applied to the rear case to help pry free the dual-cell battery with the
spudger.
